Ideal place to stay in a village minutes away from Bonifacio, Corsica
Pros: En route to Bonifacio from Porticcio, the gorgeous views alone are worth the ticket. But if ever visiting, stay here: easily worth a weeklong stay, with so many relaxing places to sit or sunbathe, in a natural setting. Chef Lionel Lebrun, 43, likes to see what he eats, so while the ingredients often include garden herbs, vegetables and fruits, like fresh raspberries in the photo, as well as flourishes like grated Persian black lime over a roast sea bass or an intermezzo (between fish and meat) of homemade limoncello granita, to make a transition), the servings are not over technical or showy. Fifteen years ago, he opened this oasis, which has Michelin recognition for gastronomy as well as a jacuzzi, spa, sauna and pool, all set in a green, garden like ambiance. Rooms vary from single to suite. One of the best breakfasts I know, with homemade yogurts, Madeleines, cakes, breads and juices. The omelette is perfect, not runny. And although they have also fallen victim to machine coffee, they offered to make fresh filtered coffee, which was delicious. Dinner included two catch-of-the-day fish, an amazing serving of two Corsican cheeses (one with truffle, another a creamy goat cheese) indirectly smoked by what is called LImmortelle, a local flower also used in cosmetics, but burned next to the cheeses underneath a silver platter, to add a smoky flavour; locally raised veal, and impeccable desserts prepared by pastry chef Alexandre Prual, who for example crafted one of the most amazing sorbets I have ever had, from garden mint, lemon mint, parsley, verveine, and sariette (weed called savvory in English). So delicate, so refined, so vividly fresh and light surrounded by fresh fruit.
Cons: Just some paltry critiques but the bedsheets could have been smoother and more luxurious, the bed larger (we were accustomed to the Radisson Blue in Ajaccio Bay, which has superb bedding). A couple of random steps in the suite mean be careful when walking about, and there was no window/vent for the small WC in our room, but this is just quibbling.